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210 \> Barbados. [March, 

(Ft07ii the American Naturalist, March, 1882.) 

BARBADOS. 

BY F. M. ENDLICH. 

AS the good ship Solent, of H. M. Royal Mail Service, is slowly- 
steaming into the main harbor of Barbados, a small flotilla 
of boats gradually accumulates around her. Boats of all sizes, 
of many colors, and in variable conditions of seaworthiness, con- 
tain a motley crew of black oarsmen. While following alongside 
of the steamer these enterprising substitutes for hackmen keep 
incessantly shouting, with many gestures : 

" Mastah ! mastah ! here's de boat for ye ; take ye right in ; go 
wid de boat of Christopher Columbus ; come right 'long, now." 

Christopher Columbus is appropriately clad in linen trousers, 
which once may have been white. The capacious folds of a sea- 
green " duster " envelope his manly form, and a gray beaver hat 
with a broad mourning band surmounts his stateiy figure. 

" Shut up dar, you black nigger," chimes in a thick-set darkey 
of the most pronounced type ; " don't go wid dat fellow, mastah ; 
come wid your own little Snow-drop ! " 

It is refreshing to note under the sub-tropical sun, even, this 
energy of competition. While passengers are listening to the 
alluring words of numerous boatmen the ship has anchored and 
everything is made ready for transfer to the shore. A short time 
must still elapse before the baggage and its owners can be placed 
into the tossing boat; meanwhile a new scene presents itself. 
Rapidly approaching is a skiff propelled by the arms of a strong 
man. Within it are three or four boys and young men supplied 
with only a minimum of wearing apparel. Resting a few yards 
from the steamer the mysterious young darkeys make known the 
object of their visit: 

" Trow down sixpence, mastah ! trow him in de watah, far out ; 
trow him far out !" 

Compliance with this apparently unreasonable request imme- 
, diately proves them to be expert divers. With eager eyes and 
an attitude of intense excitement they closely watch every move- 
ment of the passengers who may be standing at the rail. A slight 
splash may be seen in the water, at once followed by that of four 
human bodies. Often the coin is recovered even before its last glit- 
ter has faded into the dull gray of the water. It is a rare case, in- 
deed, that any sixpence should escape their eyes. Although oc- 



1 882.] Barbados. 211 

casionally a shark's fin may be seen in close proximity, the divers 
ply their vocation without paying any attention to the rapacious 
animal. Not until either patience or small change of pas- 
sengers has been exhausted will the dripping youths take their 
departure, seeking fresh fields for their novel enterprise. 

Finally the baggage and personel of some particular party is 
safely stowed away in a rickety boat, which bears the name 
" Pearl of the Ocean " emblazoned in yellow letters on a pale 
green ground, and the pull for land is begun. Rowing along and 
between the various craft which lie anchored here, the breakwater 
is at last passed and the boat glides smoothly along to one of the 
wharves. Generally the steamers anchor nearly a mile out, and 
a fine view of the harbor is afforded during the shoreward trip. 
The breakwater is a solid stone structure, extending outward for 
some distance. All boats and smaller ships enter within the shel- 
ter it affords and there discharge cargoes. As vessels are con- 
stantly arriving and departing, the scene here is one of great in- 
terest. 

Bridgetown, on the leeward side of the island, is the capital of 
Barbados. Steamers of various lines stop within its harbor, ex- 
changing freight and passengers. Dozens of lounging darkies, 
famous for their insolence, line the landing places, and protest to 
be most anxious to serve every new-comer in any capacity what- 
soever. Disinterested as this excessive politeness and attention 
appears to be at first glance, it is soon changed to disappointment 
and loudly expressed anger when a successful competitor among 
them has secured a satchel or trunk and marches off in triumph. 
That much reviled class, so prominent in our more civilized coun- 
try, the hackmen, would certainly blush at their own bashful- 
ness and maidenlike shyness could they but join the band of 
vociferating darkies on the docks of Bridgetown. With the pro- 
verbial inconsistency of the children of this world, the rejected 
candidates turn their wrath upon the unfortunate stranger who 
has given offence by not employing the entire tribe. Recovering 
speedily, however, a new victim is attacked and the 'same scenes 
are rehearsed. Bridgetown is not well supplied with hotels, and 
the wanderers usually congregate at the hostelry where Mr. 
Kingsley is said to have met with so inhospitable a reception upon 
his arrival at night. 

The island of Barbados, most prominent among the Windward 



212 Barbados. [March, 

Group, was discovered early in the seventeenth century by Portu- 
guese seafarers. It was taken possession of by British subjects, 
and settlements were started in 1625. Since that time it has 
been ruled under the British flag. Until 1627 the island was 
the property of the Duke of Marlborough, then was transferred 
to the Duke of Carlisle, and in 1652 was attached under colonial 
charter to the British crown. During the two and a half centuries 
that have passed over this flourishing colony its inhabitants have 
developed an independent, self-reliant character. Dissensions 
from the opinions of the home government, interior disturbances 
by insurrection of the colored population, earthquakes and hurri- 
canes, have failed to disturb the proud, hospitable spirit of planters 
" to the manner born." In 18 16 the most dangerous revolt of 
the negroes laid in waste more than sixty plantations in four days. 
At present the protection of life and property, by adequate pro- 
visions, is made an object of special consideration, and serious 
trouble is no longer apprehended. 

Geologically speaking, the island is coralline in origin and rises 
to an elevation of about 800 feet above sea level. Gentle slopes, 
admirably fitted for a high degree of cultivation, characterize its 
general appearance. Seen from the sea the bright green cane- 
fields, separated from each other by roads of glistening whiteness, 
produce the impression of one great garden. This, indeed, is scarce- 
ly lessened when traveling across country, where one estate joins 
the other, where dozens of sugar-mills in sight betoken the indus- 
try and prosperity of planters. But little timber remains on the 
island, having been removed for various economical purposes. 
" Parishes " represent the subdivisions of the total area, and a 
population of about 170,000 inhabitants testifies to the density of 
settlement. 

Bridgetown contains about 50,000 souls. Narrow, irregular 
streets indicate the older portions of the town. Fine villas and 
country houses are located in the suburbs. Small wooden huts 
shelter large families of negroes, while but a short distance off, 
perhaps, maybe the dwelling of an European, who has surrounded 
himself with everything that good taste and continental habits 
may require. Large gardens, indicating well developed horticul- 
tural ideas on the part of owners, surround the villas. Often the 
luxurious vegetation completely hides the dwelling from view, 
with a climate so admirably adapted to plant life, it is not surpris- 



1 882.] 



Barbados. 



213 



ing that many people should cultivate flowers and shrubs. To 
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scattered in profusion over broad grounds, is so fascinating a sight 
that its influence can hardly fail to affect individual taste. Promi- 
nent anion cr the structures of the town is the " Government 



214 Barbados. [March, 

Building." An excellent material for architectural purposes is 
obtained by simply quarrying the coralline rock. It is readily 
dressed, well adapted to withstand the effects of the moist cli- 
mate, and is of dazzling whiteness. Trying as this latter property 
may be under a tropical sun, the effect is certainly imposing. 
Within the Government Building are located the legislative, judi- 
ciary and postal departments. The colonial parliament holds its 
sessions there, and often the proud spirit of the "true-born 
Barbadian " has found vent in impassioned speech, defending 
the colony from real or fancied encroachments upon its 
rights and prerogatives on the part of the home government. 
Able minds have there espoused the cause of their native island, 
and more than once has the introduction of home-measures been 
withdrawn in consequence. In all matters, however, not pertain- 
ing directly to the colony, its citizens are intensely loyal. Fre- 
quent visits to the homes of their childhood, as well as the edu- 
cation of sons at the Alma Mater which once sheltered their 
fathers, tend to sustain the bond which distance and separate inte- 
rests might gradually weaken. The executive is represented by 
a Governor, who is appointed from Great Britain, and to whom 
legal and other assistance is afforded by the Attorney General, 
the Colonial Secretary, and officers specially appointed. " Gov- 
ernment House" is his residence. It is surrounded by grounds 
which must appear charming to the northern eye. Luxuriant 
tropical plants, fostered by the hands of skilled gardeners, a taste- 
ful distribution of flowers, shrubs and trees render the park one 
of great beauty. Within the mansion the visitor meets with 
apartments typical of the tropics. Large, high rooms, spacious 
halls, and a subdued elegance at once denote comfort and judi- 
cious consideration for sanitary arrangements. The Governor of 
Barbados has under his charge several other British islands of 
the Windward Group. Although each one is relatively indepen- 
dent, this partial centralization of executive authority is produc- 
tive of good results. Difficulties can thus be more readily 
adjusted, and the similarity of interests assures cooperation. 

Strikingly in contrast with the sable hue and light colored gar- 
ments of the natives are the bright scarlet coats of English troops. 
A garrison of 800 men is kept at Bridgetown. By their presence 
the more or less turbulent spirit of the negro population is sub- 
dued and the power is at hand to check any sudden insurrection. 



1 8 8 2 .] Barbados. 2 1 5 

Picturesque among the "Red-coats" is the uniform of native 
East Indian troops, several companies of which are quartered 
here. Turbans replace the cap or helmet, wide trowsers and leg- 
gings the more civilized pantaloons. Of strong build and finely 
formed, these troops certainly present the appearance of a foe 
not to' be despised. The policy of retaining men of totally dif- 
ferent nationalities is one which, in case of emergencies, must be 
productive of good results wherever applicable. 

Higher educational institutions are represented at Bridgetown 
by Codington College. It is patronized by the sons of planters 
and merchants, and has furnished a number of men of consider- 
able local prominence. The building is beautifully situated 
amidst tall palms and groves of flowering trees which only a 
tropical sun can produce. 

Great interest is manifested by the inhabitants in religious 
matters. The leading denomination is the Church of England, 
but others are not wanting, notably the Wesleyan. Every 
" parish " has one or more churches, and Sunday is observed 
throughout with a rigor which would do justice to an old puritan- 
ical settlement. As is found to be the case elsewhere, so here, 
the colored population enters most zealously into the services. 

Consistent with the character of the economic features of the 
island, is that of the settlers at the main port. Society in Barba- 
dos does not present many classes. Planters and merchants lead 
in wealth, while the government officials form a separate division 
distinguished for education and wide experience. Growers of 
produce are independent, and the complement is made up by 
workmen and not a few idlers. It is a noticeable feature that on 
the estates women are far better workers than men and are more 
reliable. Although a man may have no objections to pulling a 
heavy boat for several miles in a broiling sun for the compensa- 
tion of but a few shillings, he would be indignant if requested to 
work in a canefield at regular and perhaps higher wages. Many 
of the colored women are tall, well-built, and they move through 
the streets in a stately manner, certainly never in a hurry. This 
effect is greatly enhanced by the long trains of their white or 
light-colored dresses, with which they conscientiously sweep the 
dusty streets. 

Interesting material for study on evolutional development may 
be found in the growth of a small girl to the dignity of wearing 



216 Barbados. [March, 

a long white dress. No doubt, each successive step is to them of 
the same importance as to their more favored sisters of northerly 
climes. Covered with but the scantiest apology for a garment, or 
sometimes elaborately attired in nothing but a string of beads 
around the neck, the smallest members of the household attend 
to playing in undisturbed happiness. They are well treated by 
all and cry by far less than the average country children of our 
own homes. Entirely at liberty, they roam into the fields, secure 
a prize in the shape of a huge sugar-cane, and enjoy themselves 
in gradually chewing up several feet of it. As they grow up their 
wearing apparel improves. It would be difficult to draw the line 
sharply at which the most pronounced metamorphosis takes place. 
By the time they have arrived at an age of comparative usefulness, 
either at market or in the sugar-house, they have risen to the ex- 
alted position of wearing long dresses. While working or walking 
in the country a " reef " is taken in the dress below the waist. 
Huge earrings and bracelets begin to ornament the dusky skin 
and a tastefully draped turban of flashy color protects the head 
from the rays of a hot sun. The hair is plaited in short, stiff 
braids and is ornamented with beads and ribbons ; a necklace, 
sometimes more than one, is added; rings with precious glass 
stones adorn the fingers, and the young woman is ready for an 
evening promenade. Her good figure and general ornamentation 
may attract the attention of some stalwart young boatman, and a 
deepening of color in the dark brown cheeks betrays the blush 
which his loudly expressed admiration has called forth. 

An inconvenient narrowness of sidewalks in town forces pedes- 
trians into the street. There may be found a motley accumulation 
of donkeys, men, women and children. Once in a while^ team 
drawn by six mules wends its way through the crowded thorough- 
fare, causing a decided swerving and sudden scattering of the 
mass of humanity. Here, as on the plantations, women take a 
leading part in active work. While a great, overgrown darkey 
may be perched on the top of a cart and allow himself to be 
drawn by a donkey scarcely larger than a Newfoundland dog, a 
woman will walk alongside, staggering under a heavy load which 
she carries on her head. It is amusing to see the accuracy with 
which these women balance on their heads large wooden trays 
filled with fruit or vegetables. Both hands free to manage the 
folds of their ample, flowing dresses, they pass along with heads 



1 882.] Barbados. 217 

held high, ever ready for trade or for friendly gossip with some 
acquaintance they may chance to meet. 

On Friday Bridgetown puts on its gayest colors. This day is 
devoted to the planters. From all parts of the island they enter 
the town, they buy and sell, exchange views and opinions with 
neighbors whom they see but once a week, and finish the day 
with a quiet rubber of whist or brandy and soda at their club- 
rooms. To them the news or the day is important, the fluctua- 
tions of the market value of sugar and its side-products become 
living figures. They have founded a " Commercial Exchange," 
where the latest dispatches and quotations are open to inspection. 
On this day, too, the " Ice House " becomes an important estab- 
lishment. Essentially — in spite of the title — this is a restaurant. 
It is always supplied with ice, with the freshest and best viands, 
and with various luxuries as to which it seems to have the exclu- 
sive control. Every three months a shipload of ice arrives from 
Boston at Bridgetown. With it come fresh meats, vegetables, 
beer in casks, oysters in the shell (when in season), and other 
articles of food destined to tempt an islander whose thermometer 
usually ranges from 76 to 92 degrees. 

For a long time Barbados has been one of the important sugar- 
producing islands. Every article of value is mentally compared 
with sugar ; the weather is of no importance whatever, except so 
far as it may improve or injure crops, and the telegraphic news 
most eagerly read relate to the sugar market. To a stranger the 
singular unanimity of ideas upon this subject cannot but appear 
first ludicrous, then very much the reverse. Thorough cultiva- 
tion of every available portion of the island, careful management 
and judicious treatment of both the growing canes and the cane- 
juice have resulted in a high average yield per acre and a total 
sugar production of about 60,000 tons a year. Molasses and rum 
are both manufactured as additional products and are exported in 
large quantities. Ginger is extensively cultivated and forms quite 
an important item in the trade. Driving over the smooth, white 
roads, fields of sugar cane are entered immediately after leaving 
the confines of the town. Prominent in the landscape are the 
gaunt arms of numerous windmills. Strangely as they may seem 
out of place at first, their appearance soon has a certain charm and 
awakens reminiscences of countries far removed from the tropics. 
Regular, constant winds render the mills a valuable and economi* 



218 



Barbados. 



[March, 



cal adjunct to the manufacture of sugar. Located upon rising 
ground, they furnish power for crushing the canes, thus extracting 
the juice. From this latter crystalized sugar is obtained by 
methods of boiling, more or less complex. Briefly reviewing the 
process of sugar manufacture, it may be stated as follows : The 
canes are cut, stripped of their blades, carted to the crusher, and 
the juice expressed. From there the latter is led into vats where 
an addition of lime assists clarification It then passes to a series 
of kettles and is boiled down to a definite density. After being 
taken from the last pan the mass is allowed to cool and in part 





Row of Noble Palms. 

crystalize. As soon as the proper time arrives it is either filled 
into hogsheads and the molasses allowed to drain off, or the latter 
is removed in centrifugal machines. The article thus derived is 
directly marketable, but must be refined before acquiring the 
whiteness and firmness which the American retail consumer 
desires. 

On the estates the planters with their families live in patriarchal 
comfort. Absence of means for rapid communication, the unfor- 
gotten usages of the mother country, and their innate kindness, 
render them the most courteous and hospitable of hosts. Sur- 



1 882.] Barbados. 219 

rounded by fields which soon will yield golden fruit, and working 
with an energy which wind, weather or a fluctuating market im- 
pose, they lead a regular life, interrupted only by questions of 
local government, and by attempts at sanguinary revolt on the 
part of idle or dissatisfied negroes. On high points, exposed to 
view for long distances, may be seen staffs with movable arms or 
other indicators. They serve as telegraphic signals, and a men- 
acing attitude on any one plantation will soon be known all over 
the island. Thanks to good management, however, occurrences 
such as formerly devastated many plantations are becoming more 
infrequent from year to year. 

Few places, perhaps, can be found which at one glance display 
so much quiet scenic beauty and at the same time so fully illustrate 
the power of man as expressed by his industry. Groves of ma- 
hogany trees, the slender, graceful form of the noble palm, the 
clearly cut shore line, and the blue sea beyond, are combined with 
highly cultivated fields and subservience of wind and water to the 
will of man. 

The products of Barbadian industry are mainly the middle 
grades of sugar, which are largely exported to England. It seems 
strange to note, in view of this latter fact, that supplies and other 
materials are drawn from the United States to a great extent. 
American meats, canned fruits and vegetables, and even horses 
and mules, are met with everywhere. Owing to the climate, stock 
degenerates very rapidly, and neither serviceable animals nor good 
meat is raised on the island. An exception to this rule must be 
made in favor of the donkeys, however. Although of sorry ap- 
pearance and presumably ready to lean up against the nearest 
post for support, these animals are capable of a prodigious amount 
of work. Disproportionate as the size of the little brutes and 
their loads may seem, they trudge steadily along, requiring only 
occasional physical admonition on the part of their drivers Or 
riders. 

On account of the thorough cultivation of the island but few 
wild fruits are found, and in consequence the table of the work- 
ing classes is not the most varied one. Salt fish, bread and 
sugar cane form the staples. Codfish is imported in large quan- 
tities, and some of the native fish are prepared in a similar manner. 
Nearly every man, woman or child, returning from the fields, 
carries a long succulent cane. Often a small boy may be seen 



220 Barbados. [March, 

attached to one end of a cane twice as long as himself, munching 
away lustily; the hard rind is gradually overcome, and the juice 
furnishes him his favorite nourishment. In addition to the nutri- 
ment obtained in this manner, such process of demolition furnishes 
an excellent means for passing the time. Few scenes are more 
ludicrous than seeing half a dozen lazy darkies, of various sizes, 
lying in some shady corner while munching long cane-stalks with 
the utmost solemnity. Poor as the fare may be, the people seem 
to require no better. In part, the indolence of the colored popu- 
lation may be explained by the climatal conditions of the island. 
Though rains are frequent and cooling breezes are not wanting, 
the mean temperature is such as to require but very scant clothing. 
Children are clad at a ridiculously small expense, and shoes are 
luxuries unknown until the female wearer blossoms into stately 
maidenhood. By this means one great incentive to work — the 
supply of clothing for the family — is reduced to a minimum. A 
few pence per ^veek are ample to keep body and soul together, 
rum can be stolen, and both may be acquired with but little 
labor. 

Among the native fish the " flying fish " ranks high as an 
article of food. At certain seasons it may be quite rare, and 
again appear in abundance. (In March, 1880, flying fish were 
selling at four cents per hundred at Bridgetown). During our 
stay we decided to indulge in the sport of catching them, which 
had been represented to us as an highly enjoyable pastime. A 
small fishing boat was accordingly chartered, together with a 
coal-black skipper and two men to assist him. Early one morn- 
ing, long before sunrise, four of us, respectively " England," " Nova 
Scotia," " Scotland " and " America," stoud out to sea. With the 
usual forethought a sumptuous lunch had been packed into several 
baskets, rifles and shotguns were taken along to destroy sharks and 
secure seabirds. Fishing tackle and nets were supplied in abun- 
dance ; also bait. Not many parties, perhaps, have started with 
more complete equipments. Our old, gray-haired skipper stood 
at the helm with imposing gravity while three poles were put up 
in the boat, and to each of them was attached a rag of triangular 
shape. Everything was shaky, the seats were very narrow, and 
our sporting accoutrements occupied by far the greater portion of 
available space. A brisk breeze, which had been blowing from 
the start, began to freshen up, the waves were gradually growing 



1 882.] Barbados. 



221 



higher, and within the first hour we were all comfortably drenched. 
This part of the programme seemed in keeping with the expedi- 
tion, and we silently congratulated ourselves upon so auspicious 
a beginning. Before long, however, the sea continued making 
efforts to stow away a portion of its surplus water in our boat, 
and all hands were requested to "bail out." By means of hollow 
calabashes this feat was accomplished. After having gone out 
to sea about twelve miles sails were lowered and we lay tossing 
about and waiting for fish. All around us we could see the bright 
bodies of flying fish flash out from the crest of a wave, pass with 
great rapidity for some distance over the water, and then drop 
dowji again. Eventually a few curious individuals arrived, appa- 
rently to inspect the sides of our boat. During their examination 
they encountered sundry hooks, quietly opened their capacious 
mouths and allowed them to float in. One or two "flops" when 
brought on board, and they settled down, seemingly resigned, in 
the water at the bottom of the boat. This sport was surely grow- 
ing exciting — but slowly. Thanks to the outward trip and the 
constant motion of our boat — thanks, too, to our elaborate breakT 
fast, which had consisted of a glass of water — we four ancient 
mariners were beginning to experience a feeling which a novice 
on board of a ship might designate as "faint." An inexplicable 
want of energy, a certain absent-mindedness as to the fascinations 
of fishing, and a decided disinclination to attack our lunch bas- 
kets, became painfully noticeable. In order to revive our sunken 
spirits somewhat (we will generously accord him the benefit of a 
lingering doubt) our august skipper ordered the bait to be 
brought out. It was brought out. A basket of loose workman- 
ship was filled with fragments of flying fish, which might have 
been alive two weeks before ; at the time, however, they were 
very dead. This basket was hung over the side of the boat into 
the water. Evidently the fish appreciated the perfume which thus 
was spread far and wide, for they came in large numbers within 
easy reach of our nets. Whether it was the overpoweringjoy pro- 
duced by our success, or whether it was grief at the sudden end- 
ing of so many fish lives, full of youth and full of promise, we 
must allow posterity to decide. It is enough to say that " Nova 
Scotia,"" Scotland" and " America " ignominiously collapsed, 
and " the further proceedings, interested them no more." Occa- 
sionally a cold, wet fish would alight on the pale face of one or 



222 Barbados. [March, 

the other, but beyond a mild protest no action was perceptible. 
After a sufficient number of fish had been stowed away in the boat 
by " England " and the natives, the latter proceeded to do full 
justice to three-quarters of our elaborate lunch. Once more the 
sails were set and we sped homeward. Wave after wave passed 
over the dancing boat until finally the shore was reached. Wet, 
not hungry, trying to look cheerful, but nevertheless with a cart- 
load of fish to speak for us, we arrived at our hotel near noon. 
Strange as it may appear, it proved to be a rash undertaking, for 
some time to come, to mention " flying fish" within hearing of 
three certain sportsmen. 

Barbados has become a prominent health resort, more particu- 
larly for fever patients from more southerly regions. For many 
years the island has been free from serious attacks of epidemic or 
endemic diseases. South of Bridgetown, a suburb, Hastings, is 
located, where good sea-bathing and comparativly cool air can 
be enjoyed. The climate is necessarily enervating, and any stimu- 
lant of such character is a welcome change. Many of the planters 
and merchants have traveled extensively, and their experiences 
in foreign countries have borne fruit in their own colony. 

Once more the gauntlet of officious porters and boatmen must 
be run, as the southward steamer has anchored off shore. Laden 
with trophies from the island, with coral, shells and other equally 
bulky souvenirs, the traveler finds himself restored to his tempo- 
rary floating home, and , 
" The ship drove ^>ast * * * fr" 
And southward ave we fl-d." 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 

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